BIOPLASTICS - Future in Fashion and Our Everyday Ecosystems

In recent years, environmental damage from plastic waste has become increasingly present, and the call for alternative materials gets louder.
“Bioplastic” – a relatively new material which is independent from fossil fuel. Yet again, it is not entirely clear what exactly this material is. What does “bio” stand for in this context? Does “plastic” suggest that the material is only used to replace petroleum-based plastic? Or is “bioplastic” more versatile and can enter other industries, such as fashion, where polyester fibres (derived from petroleum) have the largest share of 80%?  
Will “bioplastic” salvage the current environmental crisis? What is its End-of-Life (EoL)* cycle?

Definition by Biofabricate. Read the whole report at: https://rtsos.fadu.uba.ar/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Understanding-Bio-Material-Innovations-Report_©Biofabricate-and-Fashion-for-Good-2021.pdf [Accessed: 14th of February 2023].

Different research sources see potential in bioplastics for the textile industry, both for the products and their packaging. However, many aspects are still uncertain because only a few studies have investigated an application in clothing at the time of writing.
Generally, consumers would prefer biobased alternatives to conventional materials. Especially since the proportion of plastics in textiles is very high. That would also be dermatologically reasonable, as many consumers do not want to wear petroleum-based plastics clothing.

Yet the consumer is in the dark abouthow to dispose of the materials so that the sustainable promise would be executed.Therefore, more value networks are in demand. Exchanging and linking knowledge, resources and potentials along the value chain is key to further successful developments. If bioplastics-based clothing and packaging with a sustainable end-of-life option were to be offered by retailers, it should be clarified who handles the waste material. Fashion retailers should actively integrate their customers into recycling, e.g., by crediting returned bioplastics clothing. Introducing the “warmglow effect” into play would also be beneficial. Green consumers would perceive an emotional reward from acting environmentally friendly. The obligatory use of material recycling would make consumers more aware of such responsible consumption. The current amount of plastic waste is a huge threat to our planet. Hence, bioplastics cancontribute to green rethinking towards recyclable and compostable materials. Therefore, the Open-Source policies and transparency regarding the End-of-Life cycle could be the starting points towards successful development.
To add, properties of bioplastics, such as durability and natural degradability already captured the attention of the apparel industry.
However, note that corporate sustainability decisions are usually not made by environmental experts. Having new material to work with means that the logistics of its execution must be created, which is costly. The expert decision on open or closed innovation for the implementation of bioplastics is dominated by the entrepreneurial rather than the social or ecological point of view.

*The topic of EoL use, including compostability, biodegradability and recyclability, was flagged as an area that often lacks transparency within the context within the context of biobased solutions. EoL is when the product reaches the end of its lifespan and is no longer used by its owner. “End of life” is often used in this context but often suggests that the product has no other use after its lifespan. However, within a circular economy, the aim is to keep a product and materials in use for as many cycles as possible, either through recycling or by re-entering the biosphere through composting or degradation. Therefore, we must think about the EoL from the beginning when working with new material.